Sarah Burton exquisitely distills Lee Alexander McQueen’s legacy into everything she touches under her helm as creative director of Alexander McQueen, and the pre-spring/summer 2023 menswear range is nothing short of typical of the house. Tailoring is crisp and traditional at first glance, but adjustments have been made to elements such as lapels, shoulders and waists to tuck, fold, accentuate and oversize the blazers for a modern look. Likewise, the use of utilitarian commerce throughout PSS23 elevates conventional menswear into a darker realm, something we feel Mr. McQueen would be proud of.
From blazers punctuated with metal eyelets on the chest and shoulder to cigarette-slim, tailored trousers that echo the hardware theme, this isn’t your average black suit. Neither are the accessories, as bags, belts and other small leather goods are highlighted by the signature Grip metal handle, buckle, or whatever it may be according to the accessory.
But on days off, McQueen continues such touches by applying the same eye effect to essentials such as hoodies, joggers, a rather lovely leather biker jacket, ribbed jumpers, or for something really on the naughty side, a black shirt accented with suspenders that go over the shoulders . Likewise, an entire outfit can be built with the mesh-covered Alexander McQueen Oversized Sneaker or the Deck Lace Up Plimsoll, which also comes in black.
But, true to the house’s ability to offer something for everyone, PSS23 presents “Spring Blue”, “Lilac” and a “Watercolor Graffiti” colorway across techwear, everyday essentials, tailoring (here arguably even sharper and more boxes ) and most effectively for the latter effect, on a range of streetwear-leaning outerwear such as puffer coats.
Throughout the collection is an element of bringing nature to the concrete jungle, wrapping in an Alexander McQueen uniform that perfectly evokes such a theme. From shirts in a sandy, utilitarian beige tone embroidered with nettles to a camouflage actually made from the McQueen logo, or perhaps workwear-inspired patchwork denim suitable for exploring the outdoors but actually quite tailored, all clues for a wardrobe update is there.
Take a look at the collection above and shop the Alexander McQueen Pre-Spring/Summer 2023 range online and in stores worldwide now.
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